The top layer of each core is screwed in place and the body is rough cut to shape on the bandsaw. I use a 1/4" blade to cut right to the line. Screws are 3/4" and positioned at the neck mortise and bridge pickup locations, where the holes will later be routed away. Note that the cutaway is left uncut at this time.
The bodies are then separated and the lower two thirds routed for the cavities and wiring. On the first two guitars I installed the shielding through the control cavity after glue up and it was tedious. This time I put it in first. I laminate it with contact adhesive, and "iron" it into place with a soft wood caul.
Then the top layer is laminated in place. Precision line up is greatly facilitated by the two positioning screws. By leaving the cutaway filled in, pressure is evenly distributed in this area for a superb lamination.Routing the maple bodies results in the removal of approximately 1 1/2 lbs from the core (from 8lbs to 6 1/2lbs). The reduction in weight is only partly responsible for the routing of the cavities. I also think it sounds really cool to say my guitars are "semi-hollow body." Ha!
Meanwhile the backs of the finish veneer panels are carefully scraped smooth. The steel punch is used to hone the scraper.
Then it is back in the press, with everthing carefully lined up. Note that the cutaway has been cut away (he he) prior to laminating.
After the glue has cured the panel is trimmed back with the fret saw.
In order to reduce the chance of tearout the veneer is brought flush with the rasp before proceeding. A router or laminate trimmer here, with all the grain changes, would be too risky.
My first electrics were shaped by hand. Since I built them one at a time it was no big deal. This time around I have a new toy for the drill press. I'll admit it, there is no way I can beat the prescision of this tool. Not if I was there all day with the rasp. So I cheat a little on the handwork.
And it is very precise indeed. The bodies are shown here ready for binding. I make sure the edge is perfect prior to cutting the binding rebate, and take it to 400 grit. Note that the back veneer panel is not yet in place. This allows me to not worry about scratching the back as I work the bindings, etc. The back veneer will go on at the last possible moment.
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